Sunday, April 09, 2006

Breathing in Majdanek

The black sign smiles down from the black building, friendly and benign. The letters are white and curvaceous, winking sweetly at us, as we pass beneath it's hungry, seductive gaze.

The sign reads "Bad und Desinfektion I."

Bath and disinfection. We file inside.

Numbly, I wonder how I have come here, how I am so arrogant as to think I could survive where hundreds of thousands of my sisters and brothers have perished. We walk slowly through chambers designed to quiet the condemned, watching our surroundings and drinking them in as if these were to be our last living sights as well. The entranceway, where our hair would have been cut. The bath room, where rusty showers suspend like a sprinkler system from the cement ceiling. We walk in the footsteps of so many, and I feel their quiet eyes upon us as our shod feet fall where their bare soles had shuffled. I swallow, and whisper Tehillim, and pray we do not disturb their rest.

In the last room, the gas chamber, the stench of chemicals pervades. The walls are streaked and stained with green residue, which clings to the cement like some morbid facsimile of living moss. Fingernail scratches scar the confines, following final moments scrabbling for life as the vices of death took hold. The scars grow fainter as they draw closer to the floor.

I begin to shudder as my mind struggles to encompass my surroundings. Tears swell my vision, and my very being is racked with a silent hacking I realize are sobs. The screams of the past echo around me, billowing in a deafening final protest. My feet stand on a wooden pathway raised above the floor. Step down, some terrible force commands me. Stand where they stood, die where they died. Step down! Not for several minutes can I bare to leave the "comfort" of my pathway, but I do. I step down, and join my sisters, for the few moments my sanity can sustain it.

Reality is thin in the gas chamber. There is a sense, somehow, of both terrible pressure and a vast, inescapable emptiness. The fabric of the world is frayed and weak, there where so many souls were choked from their bodies. Time is slower, and existence seems to float, very gently, in the currents of Eternity like some ancient cobweb. I continue to tremble as we mouth the Shema together, and as we leave the chamber of death. Alive, I wonder, as we shuffle out. A miracle. You do not walk out of a gas chamber.

I breathe deeply as we stand finally outside, reveling as the cold April air enters my lungs. I breathe as if I am breathing for the first time.

Perhaps I am.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

you brought tears to my eyes

Anonymous said...

I was browsing my internet instead of cooking- which is going to make a lot of people unhappy at the seder tonight- and there you were- I am so delighted that you are back!! Of course- it is already Pesach- where did the year go? Well you did it- you became a better writer- even though you were not blogging in Sem. I have never been to the camps- you took me into the heart of one who was really there- Please write more- and much more about Israel!
Wishing you and your family a Chag Kasher VSameah-
Coffee Mom

Anonymous said...

Wow.
It's been a good couple of months since we were there, but reading your blog transported me right back. Remembering all we saw and felt in Majdanek brings tears back into my eyes. You do more than just describe - you bring it to life. Your writing is amazing. Keep it up!

Anonymous said...

You have done it yet again.
I cannot describe the feeling wtih which your writing fills me. Your soul expressed in the combined letters intertwines with mine.
I agree with Michal that you have transported me back to my feelings and memories and desires of the time...fantastic...I would walk down the hall and tell you in person but alas...you are a very long hallway away.